Hunting and Fishing News & Blog Articles

You’ll see some excellent crossover scopes that are suitable for shooting distant targets and close-up deer. You’ll also see a growing trend: the integration of electronics. (Bill Buckley/)

Anatomical change, like bankruptcy, happens gradually and then suddenly. Years go by with small tweaks—to a metatarsal bone or a savings account—and then a bad break can undo them both. The same can be said of our sporting optics; this year, there are some tiny, useful evolutions of both internal and external anatomy, and some quantum leaps in design and performance.

We declared the death of the duplex reticle last year, and before that, the demise of the 3X–9X riflescope. A decade ago, we cheered the departure of the porro-prism binocular, replaced by the compact and durable roof prism. What optical trend is in its twilight this year? The simple and the modest are on life support, replaced by scopes with gee-whiz reticles and uber-​­turrets, and binoculars with integrated laser rangefinders and Bluetooth.

Companies making these products are meeting a demand for specialization, to help customers shoot farther and better, to move more nimbly, and to pay less for good-quality glass. But don’t assume all optics in this year’s test are built for a narrow niche. You’ll see some excellent crossover scopes that are suitable for shooting distant targets and close-up deer. You’ll also see a growing trend: the integration of electronics.

We categorized optics according to how you shop for them. In riflescopes, we split precision target scopes and versatile crossover scopes. We divided binoculars into those large, high-magnification units suited for tripods versus those designed to be carried and held by hand. And we reviewed most of the laser rangefinding binoculars on the market to provide prospective buyers with a sense of the capabilities of all units, not just those new for this year."

Top Hunting and Precision Riflescopes

Michael Jordan said ‘you miss 100% of the shots you never take.’ But when we get close to missing 100% of the shots we take we get frustrated. (Tom Keer/)

If I consistently hit 100% of the birds, waterfowl, or clays that I shot at I’d probably take up another sport. Wingshooting would be too easy. Misses keep us coming back, but a long string of them is frustrating. Rather than get hacked off at consistent whiffs, figure out what the problem is and fix it. Here are 12 common problems and how to fix them.

1. Don't shoot a shotgun like a rifle

It’s as basic as it gets: When wingshooting, shotguns shouldn’t be aimed, but rather pointed. (Tom Keer/)

The Brits are the best shotgunners while we Americans are descended from rifle shooters. Using rifle techniques with a shotgun is especially common among hunters who hunt both big game and birds. Rifle shooters stand sideways and gain confidence from matching the target with the front and rear sights. Their front grips are set further back on the fore end, and one eye is closed for increased focus. Rifle shooting is an incredibly focused discipline in which less movement is best.

Shotgunning is a dynamic sport which involves a lot of movement. Shotgunners need balanced stances so that they can move, and that starts with feet slightly wider than the shoulders and squared toward where the target will be killed. For a smooth gun mount with no muzzle rock, front hands are placed further forward on the fore-end. Both eyes are open so depth perception is clear, and a view is on the target, not the front bead. As rifle shooters need precise placements, bird and waterfowl hunters need shot to be in a general area. Think of the shift from rifle shooting to shotgunning like driving a manual transmission. Whenever you trade your deer stand for a walk in the woods or a seat in a duck blind make sure your scattergun technique comes with you.

2. Keep your head down

A camera can have all the features in the world, but you still need to stick to a few basic principles if you want to create good images. (Sony/)

Whether you are shooting a modern digital camera or burning black-and-white film through a pinhole in a shoebox, the principles of good photography remain the same. Many of us are so focused on recording special moments in the field that we don’t take time to consider how we might improve those images. You don’t have to understand all the bells and whistles on a high-dollar DSLR to shoot better photos. Pay attention to these three pillars of good photography every time you open the shutter, and eventually they will become second nature.

Composition

Many digital cameras come with a feature to help you frame your image in equal thirds. (Sony/)

Great photography starts with sound composition. Know your subject, the exact focal point, and how to position it within the frame to accentuate the element you viewer sees first. Learn and practice the "Rule of Thirds," a photography principle that places the primary focal point of any composition at the intersection of vertical and horizontal lines dividing the frame into equal thirds. The primary element should be positioned either along one of the lines or at their intersection. Most modern cameras have a thirds grid that can be turned on in the viewfinder to aide composition. Experiment with holding the plane of the lens at different angles to the subject. Once you have composed the photo, try backing out another 5 to 10 percent to create extra margin. That leaves the ability to crop more precisely during editing. Remember that straight horizon and waterlines are usually better than angled lines, and oh yeah, don't forget to smile!

Focus

There’s no substitute for good focus, especially if you plan to print the image. (Nikon/)

Tack sharp photos are the mark of a skilled photographer. Notwithstanding the use of special effects, such as creative blur, zoom blur, or manipulated depth of field, a sharp photo is a better photo every time, especially if you intend to produce a print. Modern cameras are so advanced that solid focus is all but guaranteed in auto modes. Nonetheless, study the focal controls in all modes for maximum sharpness. When natural conditions like low light, moving subjects, and multiple focal points try to confuse the camera's auto-focus, you'll need to understand how to compensate.

Adding wood to your grill can give meats a unique flavor. (Traeger/)

Nothing says outdoor cooking like smoky flavor, and you don’t have to have a full-blown barbecue pit to achieve it. With just a little preparation and the right technique, any gas, wood, or briquette grill can infuse your steaks, chops, ribs, and loins with the hardwood flavor of your choice.

Smoking Chips

You don’t need a barbeque pit to infuse your meal with a smoky flavor. (Western/)

The most common form of grill-top smoking is with hardwoods chips. They come in about every species of wood you could conceivably want to smoke with, from pecan to apple, mesquite, hickory, and more. When in doubt, you can never go wrong with hickory. Use the chips dry to impart just a tinge of smokiness as a finishing touch. Or for deeper flavor, soak the chips for a half hour and spread them directly on well-lit briquettes or arranged in a smoking box, or create a little boat of tinfoil to rest above the flames of a gas grill. Soaked chips will simmer for a half hour or more, plenty long enough to dress up burgers, steaks, or chops.

Hardwood Chunks

You can use wood chunks instead of chips if you’re grilling something that takes a considerable amount of time. (Weber/)

If you want longer smoking time, such as for a rack of ribs or even a pork shoulder, you're going to need something that will light and stay lit. Hardwood chunks are the same as chips, just longer lasting. Use them dry or soaked the same way as chips and monitor the cook every half hour or so to determine whether you need to create some airflow for the chunks to keep smoking or possibly add more chunks.

Tackle trays make it easy to separate and categorize your fishing tackle and tools. (RUNCL/)

Most fishermen don’t limit their angling pursuits to a single species. We like to fish for whatever we can catch, and that usually means a lot of terminal tackle and rigging. The easiest way to keep it all straight is to use individual tackle storage trays for specific species and techniques, from freshwater to saltwater, natural baits to lures. If you need to add a few trays to your collection, here are a few things to consider.

Convenience

Keeping tackle organized makes it easy to just grab and go fishing. (KastKing/)

Keeping your tackle compartmentalized is the best way to have the right tackle in the right place when you need it. With configurable dividers and see-through tops, you can stack them all in a master bag or box, quickly identify the right tray for the job, and then just grab it and go!

Configuration

Figure out the size of the tools or baits you’re organizing first so you buy a tray with compartments large enough to accommodate everything. (RUNCL/)

Plastic tackle trays are nothing more than hardware utility boxes by another name, and they come in as many different configurations as there are bits and bobs to store in them. But the removeable dividers aren't always the most reliable. They come loose and get lost. Or they go unused and take up space because we are loath to throw them away. Since soft plastics, swim baits, hooks, and weights all have unique shapes, the best practice is to know exactly what category of tackle you want to keep in each box and select a tray with as many fixed compartments as possible, keeping those you need to divide to a minimum.

Elk hunter, digital scouting master, and founder of Treeline Pursuits, Mark Livesay. (Mark Livesay/)

Mark Livesay is a Missoulian from Missouri who came to Montana to do even more of what he loves most—DIY elk hunting. Last year he hunted every day but two of September (with one 21-day stint in there), and only missed one week of October. “I’ll break those records this year,” he says. (He is entering his 30th year of elk hunting.)

Livesay uses llamas to pack in and out—“They’re wonderful, calm, and sturdy animals,” he says—and spent 108 nights in a tent over the whole year. “I’ve been elk hunting since my 20s, but I lived in Missouri. That meant traveling—a lot. I spent my first 26 years of elk hunting driving back and forth out to New Mexico, Wyoming, Colorado, those front-range western states.”

Like any other hunter not from elk country and coming west, there were a lot of articles to read about finding the right state, ratcheting down to a unit, drawing the tag, and all that,” he says. “But it all ended there. Nothing about scouting or finding the exact spots—and spots within the spots—to hunt.”

So Livesay developed and honed an elk-scouting process that has blossomed, leading to the founding of a company called Treeline Pursuits. Now he specializes in digital scouting and other elk-hunting tips with instructional Youtube videos that combine old-school maps and materials (still valuable) with new-age digital tools and opportunities. So, get ready. Here's a deep-dive into Livesay's six-step digital elk-scouting process.

The Goal: A Written Hunt Plan

A well-built overhead storage system can free up space in your garage, shed, or storage closets. (Fleximounts/)

Where and how to store equipment is an issue that all sportsmen face at some point or another. Too many toys with not enough room can lead to disheveled mounds of recreational gear and clothing and difficulty finding what you need when you need it. You don’t have to go all Marie Kondo to get organized. But a little tidying up can go a long way, and overhead storage racks are the perfect accessory to help get your sporting house in order.

Conserve Floor Space

A solid overhead rack can hold anywhere from 200 to 600 pounds. (MonsterRax/)

By tapping into the ceiling joists or roof rafters of your garage or basement, drop-down storage racks offer a perfect solution to getting gear off the floor. Made of steel, they normally hold anywhere from 200 to 600 pounds or more, depending on the size of the unit and the number of joist connections.

Bin Storage

Install your overhead storage before you buy bins so you know how large and how many you can fit. (HyLoft/)

Overhead storage racks are perfect for making the most of commercial storage bins. Just make sure you have enough drop on the vertical members to accommodate whatever bins you are using. Overhead storage racks usually have a mesh or wire-rack bottom, from which you can suspend other items, such as bicycles, tools, or lawn equipment.

If you’re unsure which spice you prefer, you can never go wrong with a sampler selection. (Coghlan’s/)

If you aren’t spicing your beef briskets and pork butts with the right ingredients, you aren’t reaching your full pit-master potential. Sure, we all have our private sauce and rub recipes, but there are so many quality commercial products out there, sometimes it just makes more sense to take advantage of them. Here’s how to spice up your game.

Dry Rubs

Dry rubs are ideal if you’re cooking meat over smoke. (Bad Byron's/)

Dry rubs are meant to be massaged onto the goods well before smoking, allowing the spices to work their magic of adding flavor while also producing great "bark" on a pork butt or rack of ribs. Dry rubs impart that tell-tale smoke ring in the outer layers of meat that helps your guests fully comprehend how fortunate they are to dine in the presence of grilling greatness.

Injection Marinades

Injectors infuse meats with marinades and prevent them from drying out on the grill. (Kosmos Q/)

If you struggle with keeping barbeque moist, it's time to resort to an injection marinade. Prepared as a solution in water, broth, or even fruit juice, an injection marinade goes deep to lock in the flavor and moisture. Just keep in mind that injection methods also require some sort of syringe specifically made to handle the job, which is an extra expense.

Most modern air compressors are easy to relocate and ready to tackle any task. (Makita/)

Sportsmen are tinkerers. We pride ourselves on always being ready to go by fiddling with gear in the off season, taking on DIY projects, and building what we can’t find in the marketplace or afford to buy. Among all the tools that we can own, a portable air compressor probably isn’t at the top of most folks’ list. But they are one of those pieces of equipment that, once you own one, you’re shop will never be without it again. From inflating tires to blowing the dust out of gear to framing up that man cave in the basement, the utility of an air compressor is limited only by the number of accessories you choose to pair with it. Here’s a look at three common types that will help you get any job done right.

Pancake Compressors

Pancake compressors are portable but take a long time to build air pressure. (Bostitch/)

The pancake air compressor is one of the most popular styles on the market. They come in a wide variety of sizes and capacities, as measured in pounds per square inch (psi) of pressure. Some pancake compressors are sold as elements of a system that includes the hose and various attachments. If you are buying only the compressor, be sure to match it with a hose rated well above the compressor's maximum psi. Pancake compressors are generally lighter and more portable than cylinder units, but they often take more time to recycle and reach maximum pressure.

Hot Dog Compressors

Cylinder compressors can power almost any pneumatic tool. (Makita/)

The cylinder or "hot dog" style compressor is the heavy-duty version of the home handyman's pneumatic shop. They'll run any tool you have, from framing nailers to paint guns and socket drivers. Just beware that cylinder models are typically heavier and therefore less portable than pancake compressors. Be sure the unit you choose has a handle for moving it around or look for a mobile unit on wheels.

A good pair of Merino socks should perform well in any conditions, even when wet. (Darn Tough/)

When we think about critical outdoor gear, socks are not typically the first items that come to mind. But the reality is they are your first line of defense against the hazards of the trail, and if you skimp on this essential bit of gear you could pay the price in blisters, cold feet, or some sort of zombie foot funk. Like everything else, fine socks are expensive, and the best are made with Merino wool. Here are a few reasons why you should be hunting in Merino wool socks.

Comfort and Durability

Merino wool socks are warm, durable, and form fitting. (Darn Tough/)

If a company is going to go through the effort and expense of putting Merino wool in a pair of socks, it's going to build them right or go out of business. You can't go wrong with a pair of Darn Tough made in Vermont. Their seamless-construction blend of Merino, Nylon, and Spandex makes for an extremely warm, durable, and form-fitting layer. At upwards of $30 a pair, your only regret in owning one pair of Darn Tough socks is that you might not be able to afford two!

Anti-Microbial

Merino wool naturally fights odors, so you can wear a pair of socks for several days before you start to smell something funky. (People Socks/)

Merino wool has a natural anti-microbial and anti-bacterial property that keeps feet warm even when wet, helps eliminate scent, and reduces the chance of any kind of creeping foot crud on the trail. While it's better to wash Merino products after every hard use, you can wear Merino multiple times before it really starts to beg for a time-out.

A good net can help you or your angler-in-training put more fish in the boat. (Plusinno/)

Most anglers lose fish at some point during the endgame, but you can up your odds of landing fish with the help of a net. If you’re looking to buy your first net, or upgrade from your existing model, keep these considerations in mind.

Do No Harm

If you plan to release your fish, a knotless mesh or rubber basket won't injure your catch. (PLUSINNO/)

The nets of yesteryear used knotted nylon mesh for the bag. The rough edges on those knots quickly strips fish of their protective slime coating, which leaves the fish more prone to bacterial infections. To help ensure all the fish you release live long, healthy lives, choose a net with knotless mesh, or better yet, a rubber basket.

Added Reach

Modern nets with classic designs are just as useful today as they were years ago. (PLUSINNO/)

The shorter the fight, the less stressful it is on the fish. Longer nets have the advantage over shorter models, giving you the reach needed to end the fight faster. Upgrading to a longer model can also help keep hooked fish out of underwater obstructions that can break you off.

Range Reporters is partnering with Federal Premium and Savage Arms to give one lucky reader the chance to win a free trip to the Peacemaker National Training Center. All you have to do is post a photo of your favorite gun range in the comments below or on this Facebook post, along with a few words about why you love it, and you'll be entered to win. We're offering an all-expenses paid trip for you and one guest this Labor Day Weekend at the PNTC in Glengary, West Virginia.

You’ll learn how to shoot out to 1,000 yards from their top instructors. You'll also get to use top-of-the-line Savage Arms precision rifles and all the Federal Premium ammo you can shoot!

All the legal stuff on the contest can be found here. Still not convinced? Check out footage of Peacemaker above.

Cole Kayser took this public-land bull in the Wyoming backcountry with a bow set at 55 pounds and a Rage mechanical broadhead. The bull made it less than 120 yards before dying. (Mark Kayser/)

At the moment neither of us could have cared who was more shocked at the 10-yard, surprise run-in—the elk or me. As the herd bull lunged to escape through the maze of lodgepole pines I came to full draw and mouth-mewed the call of a curious cow. At a 30-yard, safe-space distance, the bull braked hard and cranked broadside to seemingly see if his aged eyes were playing tricks on him. Before he had time to figure out precisely what was going on, my broadhead buried itself behind his shoulder. He was off again, but as is common with double-lunged bulls you usually get to watch the last wobble and appreciate the work of a great archery setup.

Bowhunting geeks love analyzing gear. For elk, the debate can reach heated levels—especially when it comes to broadheads and arrows. Woodland whizzes have tested every combination of broadhead and arrow known to man on these giants. There is, however, no real winner and no easy answer to the discussion. But we’ll try anyway.

If you want a short end to this article, consider that your current whitetail setup is likely suitable to take elk. The reason for this simple statement lies in the explosion of technology introduced into archery within the last several decades, particularly the last 10 years.

Bows have more energy and transfer it more efficiently than ever before. Arrows have been beefed up and slimmed down for better penetration. Lastly, broadhead designs, both fixed and mechanical, have been improved with sharpening expertise that forces you to be extra careful when attaching broadheads to the end of your arrows. In short, a new compound bow set to 60 pounds and matched correctly to a quality arrow, and broadhead setup will cleanly take an elk with a double-lung hit. Heck, I know of several bowhunters who have taken elk with bows dialed back to 50 pounds. However, setting aside that simplistic overview, there are some specifics to consider as you look at long sticks and sharp points for your bow. First, get to know that that burly bull you hope to hurl projectiles at like your prehistoric ancestors.

A shaving-sharp broadhead, like this G5 Montec, helped the author notch a DIY, public-land bull tag in Montana. The broadhead cut through the entire elk, but when the bull fell it snapped the arrow in half. (Mark Kayser/)

Target Familiarity

The state of Montana has determined that a bighorn ram has a public value of about $30,000 (Max Pixel/)

If you don’t think road kill can take a bite out of hunters’ opportunity, just ask Bruce Sterling.

Since 1985, the Montana Department of Fish, Wildlife & Parks biologist has counted bighorn sheep that have been killed near Thompson Falls, where US Highway 200 and railroad tracks run between cliffs and a river for about 10 miles.

Sterling has counted nearly 500 bighorn killed in collisions, 84 percent by cars and trucks, the rest by train. During those same decades, FWP issued only 274 ram tags to hunters.

“When you lose that many sheep, it certainly has an impact on hunter opportunity,” he said.

From a hunters’ perspective, road kill is a lose-lose. Wildlife collisions endanger drivers, waste a valuable natural resource, and, at the very least, damage our vehicles.

A folding knife is great for carrying every day, and they make great gifts. (Buck Knives/)

A reliable knife is the number-one tool for any outdoorsman. Most of us own so many that it’s often difficult to decide which one to take into the field, and we often end up taking multiples. But if you carry only one blade, a folding knife offers the best bang for your buck. It may not be as durable as a fixed blade, but a folder’s light weight and small size make it more likely you will pack it everywhere you go. Here’s what to look for in a great folding-blade knife.

Compact

A good folding-knife blade should be only 3- or 4-inches long. (Kershaw/)

For an everyday carry, or EDC as it's commonly called, you want a blade that is big enough to get the job done but not too bulky to comfortably carry. A blade length of 3 to 4 inches is about right, and any knife with an integrated belt or pocket clip will secure the tool where it belongs. Synthetic scales made of Micarta or nylon help reduce weight and are at least as durable as natural wood handles.

One-Handed Opening

Practice opening your blade with one hand in case you ever have to do it in real life. (Spyderco/)

Just about any folding blade can be opened one-handed with practice, but there's no beating the speed and convenience of a knife meant to operate with one hand. Standard mechanisms range from thumb holes and indents on the blade to ridges and levers on the spine that will deploy in an instant. One-handed operation is not just a flashy trick, it can spell the difference between life and death when you need to cut something loose from ropes, straps, or belts with one hand while hanging on for dear life with the other. Keep the blade well-oiled, and practice opening so that the technique is second-nature when you need it.

Modern rangefinders can do more than just calculate the distance between two objects. (Vortex/)

Technology moves ahead at a blazing speed, and when it comes to outdoor electronics, products that were top of the line five years ago likely aren’t even ranked as a top 10 product today. It’s no different in the world of laser rangefinders. While the core purpose of one remains to calculate the distance you are from a given object in a thousandth of a second, the new bells and whistles on the latest generation of devices makes them attractive replacements for an outdated model. Here’s a few reasons why a new rangefinder is better than your old one.

Increased Range

A good range finder should be able to calculate distances over a mile away. (Amazon/)

As laser technology improves, so has the distance rangefinders can gauge. A short while ago, 500 yards was considered groundbreaking. Now, top of the line models can reach out to calculate the distances of specific objects at 2,000 yards and beyond.

They're Smarter

Modern rangefinders can calculate real distance and line-of-sight difference in a fraction of a second. (Amazon/)

The shortest distance between two points is a straight line, but what that distance actually is—at least to a projectile flying along it—has a lot to do with shot angles. Line of sight is the actual measurement between points, but true horizontal distance takes into account the effects of gravity over the same distance. If you're shooting at significant angles, like downward from a tree stand or up a steep hillside, there can be a pretty big difference between the two. Instead of doing the math, let the rangefinder do it for you while you concentrate on the shot.

A tracking collar can help you know where your animals are at all times. (Eureka Technology/)

Let’s face it, some dogs are easier to own than others. Whether your pet is a rangy sporting breed or a domestic layabout with the occasional case of wanderlust, knowing where they are at all times is vital. Here’s a look at pet-tracking technology that takes advantage of modern communication networks to help keep pets safe and their owners sane.

GPS or Cell Coverage

Modern smart-collars use cellular networks and GPS to pinpoint your animal’s location. (Amazon/)

State-of-the-art smart collars use cellular networks and GPS in order to identify your pet's location within a specified range. When searching for the right device, take note of the distance at which the collar is effective, as well as the fact that GPS-enabled collars tend to be more power hungry.

Self-Contained

A self-contained tracking collar doesn’t require monthly subscriptions or usage fees. (Amazon/)

For more independent tracking means, self-contained units do not rely on either GPS or cell coverage. They are bulkier but have no monthly connection or usage fees and works anywhere you and your pet are within range, up to two miles depending on conditions and environment.

GPS technology is so advanced, watch makers are having no trouble squeezing in many of the same location tools you’d find on a handheld device, into a watch. (Suunto/)

Global Positioning System (GPS) technology is literally everywhere, from phones to televisions, automobiles to agriculture. And of course, GPS is essential technology for outdoorsmen who tap into global satellite networks for navigation, game tracking, timing, and a host of other useful functions. But heading into the woods GPS-enabled doesn’t have to mean packing a handheld device. Wearable GPS watches have come into their own, and there are plenty of reasons to own one.

Navigation

You don't need to carry a large handheld unit to get basic GPS functions. (Garmin/)

The essential function of GPS technology is to help us navigate. While GPS watches and other wearables lack the screen size or functionality of their handheld counterparts, they are plenty useful in tracking your course, setting waypoints, and all of the essential benchmarks of staying found in the wild.

Activity Monitoring

A watch that tracks your position and your health statistics at the same time means no more having to carry multiple devices. (Garmin/)

While some GPS watches are dedicated to helping you for find your way around, others serve as activity monitors analyzing your heartrate, stress levels, and other fitness metrics. Additional features include music storage, Bluetooth technology for syncing with other mobile devices, and, yes, super-accurate time keeping.

Most dogs can instinctively swim, but giving them a PFD will make sure they stay safe should their legs fail. (Outward Hound/)

The notion of outfitting the inventor of the doggie paddle with a personal floatation device may seem a little absurd, but there are plenty of reasons to consider a PFD for your pooch. First of all, not every dog is born a water-trial champion. While all dogs can swim a little bit purely out of instinct, not all can stay afloat indefinitely. If you are canoeing, boating, or ice fishing with your buddy, or just want to take precaution against fatigue in the water, a PFD made specifically for canines is the way to go. Here are a few things to consider.

Fit and Comfort

Be sure to pick a vest size that’s right for your dog. (Amazon/)

All dog PDFs are some form of vest that wraps or buckles around the abdomen and either buckles or Velcros across the chest. Be sure to size the vest carefully. Too small of a vest can restrict the dog's natural swimming movement, and if the vest is too large your dog could slip out.

Grab Handles

A carry handle can make it a lot easier to handle your dog in different situations. (Amazon/)

Not only do grab handles serve as a secure grip in an emergency, they make it much easier to get small- to medium-sized dogs in and out of a boat. This can be especially important at dockside, where a dog may be anxious about taking the leap aboard. Having more than one handle will help you balance the load fore and aft while craning Fido wherever you need him to go, even when he doesn't always want to go there.

A one-piece, durable hatchet is a huge asset in camp when it comes to cutting wood and other chores. (Estwing/)

There’s a debate among bushcrafters, survivalists and other outdoor enthusiasts about which is a better tool in the field, a fixed-blade camp knife or a hatchet. Each has its proponents, with big knives probably taking the edge for all-around utility. But for sheer chopping power nothing beats a hatchet. Sure, a large knife can baton firewood or curl up some feather sticks for fire-making, but try hacking down a meat pole, splitting a round of hardwood, or driving tent stakes. Take a look at these options for selecting this essential camp tool.

One-Piece Steel

Steel bladed and handled hatchets seem to last forever. (Estwing/)

A steel-handled hatchet will just about last forever. They tend to be slightly heavy and therefore aren't really a wandering bushcrafter's blade, but if you just need a rugged hatchet to throw in the back seat or bang around the bottom of a johnboat, steel is the way to go. They're handsome at any age, and the one-piece construction will last longer than you do.

Wood-Handled

A wood-handled hatchet is great for classic bushcraft skills. (Gransfors/)

Classic bushcraft calls for a wood-handled hatchet. There are many makers and styles, some of the best of which are Scandinavian. If you ask any "axe head" what is their favorite hatchet, odds are that the Gransfors Bruks Small Forest Axe is at or near the top of the list.