Hunting and Fishing News Blog Articles

The way it’s going, you’ll have a specialized scope for every rifle in your collection. Your 6.5 Creedmoor will need an optic with a reticle tuned to the trajectory of the 140-grain Federal Fusion it shoots so well. Your .300 Win. Mag. will require a first-plane precision scope in order to place bullets beyond 1,000 yards. And only a primitive would shoot an AR chambered in .223 without a matching .223 riflescope.

Whatever happened to buying a scope that can fit a variety of rifles? Those versatile riflescopes are out there, and if our 2020 Optics Test is an indication, the category is healthier than ever.

Because of the rise in specialization—it’s been compounded with the explosion in the number of purpose-built precision target scopes—for a couple years we have divided our riflescope evaluation into two separate categories. Those scopes intended for long-distance shooting are considered in our Precision Riflescope category. Everything else, especially those scopes that are designed for hunting but which have attributes like bullet-drop reticles or turrets designed for dialing, are grouped in what we call our Versatile Riflescope category.

This year, we tested 19 of these cross-over scopes (you’ll see only 17 write-ups here because we combined multiple configurations of the same model in a single review). They included four short-range scopes—from Athlon, Bushnell, and Konus, and newcomer Skinner Sights—that feature low magnification and configurations that can be used on everything from a personal-defense shotgun to an AR or even a slug shotgun or straight-wall cartridge rifle.

At the other end of the spectrum, our Versatile category included scopes with large objective lenses and high magnification that would be just as at home on an elk hunt as on the long-distance steel range. That wide variety of attributes makes head-to-head comparisons difficult, but by keeping in mind the organizing principle of the category—versatility—we made sense of this highly functional collection of scopes.

The best precision scopes get put to the test. (Andrew McKean/)

The explosion of participation in long-range target shooting has spawned an entirely new category of riflescope. I know. I know. Old news. But to appreciate how deeply the precision-rifle movement has penetrated the optics industry, consider all the resources firms are pouring into riflescopes that really have only one job, to help shooters engage steel targets at extremely long ranges.

Not many years ago, these optics companies would pour those resources into a flagship binocular or spotting scope, or into a riflescope with super-premium glass that might pair with an heirloom rifle. It says a lot about the ascendance of practical shooting games that now these companies’ flagship products are precision scopes built on hulking 34mm tubes with first-plane reticles that only a handful of shooters will ever use as intended. But it’s the influence of these shooters that is moving the market.

A representative of one scope company told me that he gets more requests for “MIL/MIL” scopes—riflescopes that have both turrets and reticle tuned to milliradian values, than for any other configuration, including the venerable old 3-9x42. Late to the precision-shooting game, this company scrambled to produce a 34mm, first-plane milling scope, which because of the precision components required by precision shooters, is priced well above $1,500.

“We don’t sell a lot of those scopes, but it confirms to the customer who buys our second-tier scopes that we’re serious about serving shooters,” said the representative. “As a result, we sell a lot more products.”

Any shooter who has run a PRS course understands the difficulty of acquiring distant targets, then using all the tools of their riflescope—precisely dialing the distance and windage solution with finely calibrated turrets, or using the fine references in the reticle to hold over or hold off—to make consistent hits at targets well beyond 1,000 yards. That task is aided by shooters’ ability to precisely focus the image, use illumination to highlight the reticle against the background, and rely on excellent glass and coatings to resolve small targets at far-distant ranges.

Jennifer Broome works a German shorthair. (Jennifer Broome/)

To keep upland and duck dogs primed for the fall, you need to train and exercise them all year long. But in the dog days of summer there are a few drills that can make a tremendous difference in your pup’s performance come opening day. Jennifer Broome is one of the best gun dog trainers in the country and her kennel QK Dogs is widely respected by hunters and dog handlers. She has some key tips for getting gun dogs primed for the season that won’t take much time out of your day. If you’re looking for smart and simple drills you can mostly do on your own, you’ve come to the right place. Stick to the basics Broome outlines below, and your gun dog will excel in the marsh or uplands this fall. —J.G.

1. Staying Cool

We all love having our dogs inside with us, but you need to acclimate dogs to the climate before exercising them, particularly during the hot summer months. I’m not saying you can’t bring them into the house, but a dog that spends all day loafing in the air conditioning can run into serious heat exhaustion problems if he isn’t used to the heat and humidity. Don’t just walk out of the house on a humid August morning and start throwing bumpers. Field dogs greatly benefit from living at least part of their days outdoors (with shelter and water) in order to better adjust to the temperatures in which they are required to work.

You really need to watch your dog in summer, particularly if he has packed on a few too many pounds. A dog that is one pound overweight is on par with a human who is 10 pounds overweight. Two of the tell-tale signs that your dog is tired or dehydrated is a low tail and a cupping of the tongue while the dog is panting. Keep an eye on his tongue. If it’s out and he’s breathing hard, it may be time to slow down the work. But if looks like you could pour a Dixie cup of water into his tongue because it’s cupped and curled upwards, he’s overheating and you need to cool him off. Get him to a stream or pond if you can. If one isn’t nearby, go to a shady spot and pour water on his belly, paws, or inside his ear flaps (not the ear canal). If you have only limited water, DO NOT pour it on his back, as it could overheat him even more. Getting into the air conditioning is a smart way to cool down, too. —J.B.

2. Staying Fit

The Bureau of Land Management manages one in every 10 acres of land in the United States, and approximately 30 percent of the Nation’s minerals. (Michael Campbell and Aaron Haselby, BLM /)

William Perry Pendley, the former oil-industry lawyer and vocal public-land antagonist, has been withdrawn as the Trump Administration’s pick to lead the Bureau of Land Management.

Pendley had been serving as the agency’s acting director since August 2019, but had been unable to secure a Senate hearing to confirm his role as permanent director of the federal agency that administers 245 million acres of federal public land in the West and manages 10,000 federal employees. In June, President Trump announced his intent to formally nominate Pendley as BLM director.

Because of his controversial stance on a number of lightning-rod issues, ranging from climate change to the sanctity of Native American ceremonial sites to the legal standing of the very public lands he was tasked with managing, Pendley’s confirmation as permanent BLM director has been serially postponed.

He was scheduled to appear before a confirmation hearing before the Senate’s Energy and Natural Resources Committee this fall to testify about his record, in which he has consistently stated that the federal government should not own or manage public lands, and to articulate his vision for the agency that manages the nation’s largest portfolio of real estate.

Instead of standing Pendley for permanent appointment, the Trump Administration extended his status as acting director for more than a year, a move that Pendley’s detractors said was an attempt to sidestep not only the law but the expectation of the millions of Americans who recreate and do business on the nation’s BLM lands.

A stomper Alaskan Sitka blacktail on high alert in an alpine meadow. (Lon E. Lauber/)

1. California Blacktails

“There he is, moving through the Zinfandels. Wait. Wait. He’s heading toward the Cabernet block. We can cut him off in the old vines behind the tasting room.”

This may be the strangest hunting dialogue I’ve ever recorded. I’m in the back seat of Ryan Newkirk’s Ford F-350 pickup, which is raising a roostertail of dust as we baja around dirt roads on his family’s California vineyard to cut off blacktail deer moving through the vines. I’m a wingman on this particular hunt. My buddy Craig Boddington is in the front seat, and he’s ready to bail out the moment the pickup stops, his Mossberg Patriot sitting to his left, barrel down, bolt open on a full magazine. It might not be Alabama’s piney woods or Wyoming’s sage flats, but this is hell-yeah deer hunting, and I cannot wait to see how it plays out.

We’ve been hunting in this rolling blind for the past day—“trolling,” Newkirk calls it. We hit dust-raising speeds only in pursuit of a distant buck, or making double time to a glassing spot. Mostly, we’re idling past his family’s 4,000 rows of grapevines at about 2 miles per hour, straining our eyes to pick out the flick of an ear or the glint of an antler in a linear wilderness of grape leaves and clusters of heavy, hanging fruit, just a few weeks from harvest.

Satisfied that he’s outpaced the pair of bucks that have been jogging into the wind—not alarmed, exactly, but on edge in the long ocher light of a summertime Golden State evening—Newkirk stops his pickup at the end of a 200-yard-long trellis of vines and motions for Boddington to join him. They leave their doors open and hunch forward with the low-shouldered crouch familiar to hunters everywhere. Newkirk unfolds his shooting sticks, Boddington levels his rifle on a gap in the vines, and the sharp bark of the gun indicates that another buck is headed to the Steinbeck Vineyards skinning pole.

The author with a public land bull. (Michael Herne, Coffee or Die Magazine/)

Editor’s Note: This article was originally published by Coffee or Die Magazine on August 30, 2019. For more stories like this, visit www.coffeeordie.com.

I’m a self-taught bow hunter with a passion for elk hunting. The first time I heard the bugle of a bull elk echo out of my computer speakers, I knew I had to go and experience it in person. So that’s exactly what I did.

In 2017, my first season, I made just about every mistake a new hunter could make. I still downed a bull, but it was hard fought. The next season was much different — and that success was earned by grinding it out, learning the land, and growing from my mistakes.

After two successful archery hunting seasons, people started asking me for advice. With an average 6 percent success rate in the units I hunted, how was a newbie hunter able to fill tags when more experienced hunters were eating tag soup? I attribute my success to six general rules that are adaptable and will evolve with your experience and knowledge.

This isn’t a typical “how-to” elk hunting guide — these are a collection of lessons learned in my two short yet successful archery seasons hunting elk in over-the-counter (OTC) units in Colorado.

The author with a solid Wisconsin buck. (Brian Lovett/)

Although it feels as if 2020 has dealt us a giant collective gut-punch, take heart: Deer season is on the way. And opportunities abound from coast to coast and border to border.

Whether you plan to stalk the big woods of the Northeast, explore the piney timber of the South, stake out ag fields and woodlots in the Midwest, or explore the vast open range of the West, the deer are waiting. In fact, you can get after them in a few weeks.

But there’s much to be done first: planning, shooting, scouting, cutting lanes, checking cameras, tending to food plots and more. Better get busy, as deer season will open before you know it. Meanwhile, here’s an overview of 2020-2021 hunting options nationwide.

Alabama, Alaska, Arizona, Arkansas, California, Colorado, Connecticut, Delaware, Florida, Georgia, Hawaii, Idaho, Illinois, Indiana, Iowa, Kansas, Kentucky, Louisiana, Maine, Maryland, Massachusetts, Michigan, Minnesota, Mississippi, Missouri, Montana, Nebraska, Nevada, New Hampshire, New Jersey, New Mexico, New York, North Carolina, North Dakota, Ohio, Oklahoma, Oregon, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, South Carolina, South Dakota, Tennessee, Texas, Utah, Vermont, Virginia, Washington, West Virginia, Wisconsin, Wyoming

As someone who grew up field hunting stubborn Canada geese in Illinois, there is never a better feeling than when Sept. 1 hits. It’s the kick-off to resident honker season, when young, uneducated birds typically fly the same pattern every morning. The first few days are often easy pickings, a welcomed reprieve from a fall and winter of watching anti-social geese give us the middle finger as they fly over our decoy spread to the safety of the refuge. During the regular season, migrating honkers are some of the smartest quarry (and most difficult to kill) east of the Mississippi River. We are talking old birds, many of which are 5 to 15 years old. Imagine trying to kill a teenage buck or tom. It would be damn near impossible. That’s why the resident season is such a great time to be in the field: birds, old and young, are much more predictable.

Local Canadas are overpopulated just about any place you will hunt. They particularly love urban areas and the green spaces that are interwoven among big cities. And they will also roost on manmade ponds in the suburbs, feeding on the grassy banks and fattening themselves into near record-sized geese. On the fringes of these areas are where I like to target resident geese, but they are certainly huntable in rural locales as well. There’s just something a bit more satisfying (for me) to set up in a cut wheat field across the highway from a neighborhood pond and shoot 15-pound honkers right in the beak.

You don’t have to wake up at an unseemly hour either or set massive decoy rigs to get the job done (as long as you’re on the X or hunting water). You just need to scout hard, hide well, and keep a few tricks up your sleeve. Here’s how to target these susceptible early-season birds.

1. Scouting

I love to scout early season, because it’s typically a simple endeavor. The newer neighborhoods north of town all have ponds and the local birds roost on the water 365 days a year because those ponds are aerated and stay open even on the coldest winter days. I just have to watch the pastures in August to see where the birds are feeding. If some of the agriculture fields get cut right outside city limits, that’s an added bonus, but a rare one. Resident geese patterns are pretty reliable in September, so if you can get on the X, there’s a good chance the birds are coming back to the same spot as long as you don’t do anything to screw it up, like throwing out too many decoys or not hiding well enough. If you can’t get access to the feed field, you have to get under the birds. No amount of flagging, calling, or decoys is going to pull those birds off a line they have been flying for weeks or even months, unless you’re a very good caller. Your only real chance is to peel a few juveniles, but they have to be flying over the top of you.

The author with an eight-point Kentucky buck in velvet. (Josh Honeycutt/)

Many of us want to shoot big deer. And every so often, a good buck with a head full of horn shows up on your trail camera. You’re excited, and start to wonder if this deer’s rack is as big as he’s going to get or if he still has some growing to do. The answers depends on a few different factors. By August, some deer are topping out, while others still have a little road left to travel, and their antler size could increase.

Antlers are among some of the fastest-growing animal cells known to man. How do they work? Studies show antler growth acts like a controlled form of cancer, says Kip Adams, director of conservation for QDMA. This regulated escalation allows deer to grow their racks quickly. Biologists understand certain aspects of antler growth, but it is still a mystery what triggers and halts the growth.

While the antler-growing process began months ago—soon after antler shedding—not all bucks dropped last year’s antlers at the same time. This puts deer at slightly different stages when it comes to new antler growth. For those bucks that dropped their antlers earlier in the season, their development is virtually complete by now. Interestingly, most bucks stop growing their antlers around the same time, regardless of when the growing process started.

“Unless they were a late drop, from now on, [growth] is rather minimal in comparison to the overall size of the rack,” says Terry Drury of Drury Outdoors. “[If] you are still seeing these dark bulbs on the end of their main beams and/or antler tines, they still have growing to do.”

But Adams and Drury say late bloomers are the exception, not the norm. By early August, for most bucks, there is little antler left to produce.

Your best shot is most often your first shot, so zero for a cold barrel. If your rifle puts subsequent shots an inch or two higher or lower, you’ll probably still be on target with quarry as large as deer inside of 250 yards. (Ron Spomer/)

You see it every year at the range. Some poor guy bangs round after round downrange, cussing and twirling his adjustment dials in confusion as shots scatter over a sheet of paper the size of a barn. I’ve seen people burn through 20 rounds, throw up their hands in frustration and go home, no closer to dropping bullets where aimed than when they started. That’s a pity, especially when you can sight-in a scoped rifle with as few as two shots.

1. Bore Sighting Isn’t Boring

Before you fire that first shot, bore-sight the gun. Use a mechanical or laser bore-sighter or just eyeball it. Eyeballing might sound rather coarse, but it’s cheap and it works. The trick is to mount the rifle in a vice or cradle so that it doesn’t move easily. (A cardboard box with notches on two top edges to hold the rifle works well in a pinch. Weight the bottom to prevent sliding.)

Remove the bolt from the action. Peer down the barrel and adjust the rifle to visually center a small bull’s-eye at about 30 yards. Now, without moving the rifle, turn the turrets until the reticle centers over the bull’s-eye. Barrel and scope should now be pointing to the same place.

Now you face a small dilemma. Sometimes bore-sighting is good enough to put you on paper at 100 yards, sometimes it’s not. Do you risk a shot or start closer? I find it generally pays to take that first poke from about 30 yards where you’re sure to hit paper. After the first hole appears on the target, realign your rifle with the crosshair exactly where it was for your first shot (over the bull.) Again watch the reticle while turning the windage and elevation dials to move the crosshair over bullet hole. Bingo. The reticle is now pointed exactly where the barrel is throwing its shots. You’re zeroed for 30 yards but also for about 200 to 250 yards. But you’ll be high at 100 yards.

A proper survival kit includes essentials like a compass, matches, knife, and food. (Tim MacWelch/)

Ask a hundred outdoor enthusiasts to write up a shopping list for a wilderness survival kit and you’ll get a hundred different lists. The same is true for preppers building disaster preparedness kits or picking which EDC gear to carry. We all like different products and worry about different scenarios (and there are specialized survival kits for a variety of perilous situations). Individually, we all have different skill sets and budgets. What we do have in common are the same needs. We all need shelter, water, and food every day. In an emergency, first aid, lighting, signaling, and navigation equipment are often a necessity as well.

The simplest “survival priorities” list (shelter, water, fire, and food) can help us build a kit for many situations (especially in the backcountry), but the more refined “10 essentials” list will give us the tools for all types of scenarios. The original list of the “10 essentials” was created by Seattle-based group called the Mountaineers in the 1930s. This simple list of supplies would help a mountain climber during an accident or emergency, and it provided a support system if someone had to spend an unexpected night in the outdoors (or stay out there even longer). In recent years, the group has revamped the list to focus on systems, rather than specific pieces of gear.

The original list had some indispensable items on it, like a compass, matches, knife, and food. Today’s system-based list, however, doesn’t limit you to 10 separate items. As I detail these different builds, I will look at some popular items for wilderness survival kits, disaster preparedness kits, budget kits, and kits for the little ones to carry. Whatever you pack, just make sure it contains the most critical elements for survival: hydration, emergency shelter, first aid, navigation, fire, and signaling.

1. Navigation

A simple compass and a map can make “getting turned around” into a minor inconvenience and prevent a major emergency.

Over/unders have almost completely taken over the double gun market. Good ones typically cost thousands of dollars because they are built to last for generations, functioning without fail even after tens of thousands of shotshell rounds have been fired through them. Beretta, Browning, Krieghoff, Caesar Guerini…the list of fine production gun manufacturers goes on. And there are still several bespoke shotgunmakers that sell custom doubles for more than most of us will make in a year; hell, 10 years.

But there are also quality O/Us that are far less expensive. Strangely, most were never highly sought after or have faded into obscurity. And though it’s difficult not to spend at least $1,000 in order to get a decent O/U these days, there are a few exceptions. So, if you are looking for a dependable field or clays gun that won’t drain your bank account—with the exception of the German-made Blaser F16—these are some of the best options.

1. Blaser F16

If you don’t want to spend $4,000 on a shotgun, I get it, but the German-made Blaser F16 is worth every penny. It’s a meticulously well-constructed firearm, something the Germans are well-known for. I shot this gun on skeet and trap several years ago when it first debuted, and although the recoil was a little on the heavy side for a 7.5-pound gun, it shot amazingly well from the high-gun position. But from low gun, I recall falling off a bit, which is to be expected, but also because the gun shot high. A co-worker patterned the F16 at the range and found that it shot a foot high at 25 yards. That’s just fine if you are a competitive clays shooter, but it’s not so great for bird hunters. The way you can remedy that is by buying the 2¼-inch drop buttstock, otherwise you will need to see quite a bit of open space below the target to be accurate with the F16. It’s an amazingly balanced O/U that has a weight system integrated into the stock that you can adjust for a custom fit. The 12-gauge has a crisp 4-pound trigger, but the one thing I am not a big fan of is the barrel selector is forward of the trigger. You may not find it bothersome, but if you’re used to a tang-mounted selector, it takes some getting used to.

2. Browning Citori Hunter Grade 1

Stay safe. (Abby Savage via Unsplash/)

Chainsaws are dangerous but necessary tools. Handling a machine that can easily cut down a ponderosa the width of a barrel should not be taken lightly. Fortunately, you can protect yourself from the most common dangers associated with chainsaws. We narrowed down four products sure to keep you safe so you can quickly finish this job and head onto the next.

Those foam ear plugs are fine, but if you’re going to be sawing all day, you should consider an upgrade. These headphones not only have 24 dB of noise reduction, they also will play your music. In fact, they have blue tooth to connect to your phone or other music-playing system allowing you to stay entertained while working. An integrated microphone also allows you to make and receive phone calls through the headphones.

When it comes to keeping your legs safe, these pants aren’t messing around. Their 1000 denier polyester is coated with PVC with protective payers of Tek. They meet OSHA regulations and are UI certified. They’re also adjustable all over making for a perfect, safe fit.

The majority of our most sensitive areas are on our heads. Your eyes, ears, mouth and nose are all critical to everyday function but fragile. Buy gear that keeps them safe. This helmet will shelter your ears and face while also allowing cool air to flow through. It fits well even when working in overhead positions, and each piece is adjusted to prevent snagging. If you don’t need a shield and ear muffs, just take them off.

You may think that sunglasses or even safety glasses are sufficient for chainsaw work. They’re not. Consider these goggles made with anti-fog steel mesh that allow you to see through. They’re specially designed to protect you from wood chips and other fast-moving particles that could pierce or break a weaker material. For extra security, pair them with a face shield.

Some people will tell you that hunting hogs in the high heat of summer is a fool’s errand – and so it can be, especially if you shoot a big boar when it’s furnace hot in the bottom of some remote, roadless, hellhole of a canyon miles from anywhere. I have been there and done that. Unless you’re a slow learner, you probably won’t care to repeat the experience.

But summer can be a great time to hunt hogs because they can become easier to pattern. Determining the best way to hunt depends largely upon where you’re hunting them, when you’re hunting them and what the local conditions are. Methods that work in central California may not work in a Southeastern swamp or in the thick South Texas brush country. Most traditional methods of hunting hogs still work in summer (with modifications), and some will always work better than others depending on local circumstances. Here are some of the best ways to target summer hogs without breaking too much of a sweat.

1. Scouting Pays Off

Hogs hole up in thick cover on warm days, so finding them isn’t always easy—but it’s often easier in summer because hogs may be more concentrated in areas that satisfy their basic needs. In the cooler, wetter months, they can scratch out a living most anywhere and may range far and wide. They may eat a bit less during summer because they’re less active, but they still have to eat, and with many natural food sources drying up, they won’t be too far from reliable food sources such as agricultural crops and feeders. They still need water, and this, more than any other factor, can be the key to finding hogs when the weather turns hot.

Hogs may not move far, but when they do, they leave unmistakable sign in the form of tracks, droppings, rooting, rubs, wallows, and hair strands in barbed-wire fences. Guides and ranch owners usually have a good idea of where hogs may be hanging out. Maps can help you pinpoint sources of water, and trail cameras can be a great aid in discerning daily movements. When scouting, remember that the goal is not to bump and push hogs out of an area, but simply to pattern their movements in order to formulate a hunting strategy.

National parks are the crown jewel of America's public lands. Now, they will finally get updates to their aging infrastructures. (NPS Photo/J. Tobiason/)

For decades, the conservation community has been advocating for the full and permanent funding of the Land and Water Conservation Fund, a program that uses royalties from offshore oil and gas operations to purchase new public lands and maintain public access. Today President Donald Trump—who has often been criticized by conservation and public land advocates—signed a bill that will do just that.

“We’re here today to celebrate the passage of truly landmark legislation that will preserve America’s majestic natural wonders, priceless historic treasures—and that’s exactly what they are—grand national monuments, and glorious national parks,” President Trump said before signing the bill. “This is a very big deal, and from an environmental standpoint, and just from a beauty of our country standpoint, there hasn’t been anything like this since Teddy Roosevelt, I suspect.”

The Great American Outdoors Act achieves two main goals. The first is a decisive victory in the decades-old battle to secure full funding for the LWCF, at $900 million annually. Until now, advocates had to renew the case for funding each year, and their efforts have only ever been partially effective. Since its establishment in 1964, the LWCF has only been fully funded twice. And, if you tally up how much that appropriations process left on the table, as the LWCF Coalition has, you’ll find that Congress diverted more than $22 billion from public lands and waters over the past six decades.

Second, the GAOA will chip away at the $16 billion worth of maintenance backlogs on federal land by establishing The National Parks and Public Land Legacy Restoration Fund. This new fund—earmarked for deferred maintenance projects—will receive a maximum of $1.9 billion annually to be divided among federal land management agencies over five years. Like the LWCF, it’s funded by federal revenue from energy development. Most of this fund will be allocated to National Parks, which bear the lion’s share of maintenance issues, but it’s still a win for public land owners everywhere—especially since some politicians have used the backlog as an excuse to stop funding and acquiring new public lands.

Originally introduced in March, the GAOA since gained momentum with 60 total cosponsors from both sides of the aisle. In particular, senators Steve Daines (R-MT) and Cory Gardner (R-CO) championed the bill in the Senate, where it passed 73 to 25 in June.

See the fish better. (Tessa Wilson via Unsplash/)

Sunglasses aren’t just for protecting your eyes. Sure, that’s the primary feature, but for anglers, sunglasses are a tool for seeing more fish. Don’t buy gas station glasses and expect to spot as many brook trout in a stream or bonefish in the flats. If you’re not sure what’s best for you, we narrowed down four good options for you and your family.

It’s hard to say enough good things about these sunglasses. They’re perfect for nearly any fishing situation. The polarized, anti-reflective and hydroleophobic lenses keep your eyes safe and maximize visuals on fish. The rectangular frames fit most faces. They come in many colors. There’s a reason Smith calls them their Guide Choice glasses.

If you’re fishing in the ocean, buy these glasses. Their polarized lenses will help you see fish. Their 580 Glass is scratch-proof and offers 100 percent UV protection. The blue mirror lens is great for full-sun settings on and offshore. The nylon frame material is tough and durable. The best part is, every pair of Costa glasses include a lifetime warranty.

These glasses may look good, but don’t let their style fool you. The lenses are polarized and reflect glare from the water. They are 20 percent thinner than most glasses. The lens coating is scratch resistant. Look good on and off the water.

No, you shouldn’t break the bank on pricey glasses for kids—knowing at best they’ll be outgrown and at worst they’ll fall in the water or be left at the lake. That’s why these are perfect. They’re affordable but also lightweight and versatile. The polarized lenses will help your kid see fish in the water and eliminate reflection. The frame is soft silicon and virtually unbreakable, protecting the glasses and your child’s face.

Necessary boat buys. (Roberto H via Unsplash/)

So you bought a boat—congratulations. Now think about what you need inside of it. While options for boat gear are nearly endless, and depend often on what you’re doing, a few staples for any boat—especially a fishing boat—apply. Consider these before you launch into the big blue.

Pack this thing full of any item you need on the water, close the zipper, and don’t worry another moment. The YETI bag is 100 percent dry with waterproof zippers and a U-dock to ensure a complete seal. The shell is high-density nylon and the lamination is puncture and abrasion resistant. No matter what you throw at this, or throw this into, your gear stays dry.

Take this with you on a boat, in the mountains, or on the trail and it will charge your devices. Three USB ports allow you to charge three items at a time. Expect enough power to charge a iPhone X3 up to 7.4 times and a Galaxy S0 Plus about 5.7 times. Recharge the battery pack with the sun, or if you think about it, plug it into an outlet.

If you plan to do much fishing off of your boat, consider this rod holder. It allows you to set a line, prop your rod in the brace and kick back. The durable build will last you for years. It also has a spring-loaded, auto-locking base. A quick and easy release ensures when you do get a bite, you can be the one to reel it in.

An anchor may seem like a simple item, and it is, but it’s also a critical one. Go with the best. This high-grade, manganese steel anchor is perfect for any smaller watercraft. It’s also self-launching. It’s not too big to be in the way, but big enough to keep you stopped whenever you need to be.

Alluring choices for pike. ( Alan Bishop via Unsplash/)

Northern pike are known for their aggressive behavior and extra-sharp teeth. They’re such aggressive predators, in fact, that if illegally introduced into a lake or reservoir, they’ve been known to eat nearly all other fish. But the qualities that can make them so destructive in an unwanted water system are the same ones that make them so fun to catch. We’ve narrowed down four lures that will help you make that happen.

This lure might not look like much, just a treble hook on a yellow and red spoon, but trust us, it works. Its flasher is loud enough to attract attention but subtle enough to still resemble something the pike wants to eat. It wiggles and it wobbles and is generally irresistible. And if you don’t happen to be on a pike water, throw this for walleye, bass and other hungry predators.

Have you ever seen a pike come to the surface like a shark? If you haven’t, put the experience on your bucket list. Buy this lure to make it happen. The pencil popper with a weighted tail comes in many color variations and has two treble hooks attached to its middle and tail. It’s also tough and will last through many thrashings.

This spinner bait might be one of the best options to catch a pike underwater by pretending to be a small fish. It comes in a variety of colors and is built to imitate just about any small bait fish. You’ll be irresistible to any voracious predator, and the 12-inch steel leader means the bait won’t break off on sharp teeth. Just be sure you’re holding tight to your rod when it comes in for a strike.

Prepare for a fight if you want to catch a pike on a fly rod—a fight you won’t regret. This fly will make it happen. It’s designed to imitate a minnow and will flow, twitch and shift in the water just like a small bait fish. It’s also durable enough to use again and again. If you haven’t fished for pike on the fly, give this a try.

Sometimes you need to break the rules of early-season deer hunting. (John Hafner/)

The opening weeks of deer season bring renewed excitement, promise, and enthusiasm. They also bring a fairly rigid set of “rules” that most deer hunters have adopted as rock-solid truth. Early season tactics center on feed-to-bed patterns (and rightly so) and are typically viewed as a game of patience. But what if the things you think you know about hunting early season whitetails aren’t actually based in fact? Odds are, many of them aren’t. So let’s dive into a few myths that need busting.

1. Mornings Are a Waste

I’m ashamed to admit that I once bought into this myth in a big way. Morning hunts during the earliest stages of deer season, say September and into early October, were taboo. You simply couldn’t hunt the mornings without risk of screwing up the rest of the season by bumping deer on the way to the stand. And this is a fact—if you bumble around fields and food sources. However, if you know how to look at a map and follow a path saved on a mobile hunting app like HuntStand, there’s really no reason that should happen. Avoid deer that are likely feeding in ag fields and primary food sources in the pre-dawn darkness and you could have a pretty good morning of activity. Hang a stand on a travel route that takes those deer back to their bedding areas, and access that stand from a route that avoids bumping them. And just like that, you’re in the game.

2. Early-Season Scrapes are Only Hit at Night

Yeah, and turkeys only gobble in the spring, right? Well, that’s interesting because I’ve not only heard turkeys gobbling throughout the fall, I’ve also seen bucks working scrapes with fevered intensity in September and October. The fact of the matter is this: There’s plenty of scraping activity after dark all season long. And there is plenty of daylight activity all season as well.

Destin Demarion with a great smallie. (Bassmaster/)

Many tournament bass fishermen are guilty of eating poorly on the water. Not only is this not good for physical health, but it can also affect your mind. Being able to think on the water and make good decisions is so important in this sport whether you are a Bassmaster Elite Series Pro or just enjoy fishing your Tuesday night jackpot tournaments. I’m going dive into four snacks I always have on the boat that are nutritious, quick to consume, but not totally in the health nut category.

1. Jerky

There was a study conducted years ago with Bassmaster Elite Series anglers by connecting them with FitBits and tracking how many calories these guys were burning out there on the water in practice and in the tournaments. The results were pretty staggering. Most guys were burning well over the daily recommended caloric intake which means putting those calories back in were ever more important. Meat is full of protein and let’s face it, who doesn’t like beef jerky? It tastes good and is packed with protein that your body needs and will help with muscle recovery. I try to avoid ones that have a ton of unnatural things in them and keep it simple. I’m a big fan of Dukes and also Epic Jerky as both are not ramped up with a bunch of random ingredients and are also very good tasting.

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2. Trail Mix